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The world of FDM 3D printing, explained well.
Printers, filaments, settings and fixes for the most common defects: free tools and sourced guides to help you print better the first time.
How FDM printing works
A 3D file (for example STL or 3MF), downloaded or designed by you.
The program cuts the model into layers and writes the G-code: paths, temperatures and speeds.
A hot nozzle melts the filament and lays it down layer by layer on the plate.
Support removal, cleaning and, if needed, sanding or painting.
Printers: what’s the difference?
Inexpensive and easy to use; ideal for PLA and PETG. The plate moves back and forth.
The plate only moves vertically: a rigid frame with high speed and precision.
They hold heat and cut drafts: needed for ABS, ASA, nylon and polycarbonate.
An extruder next to the nozzle (direct drive) works better with flexible filaments like TPU; Bowden is lighter but less suited.
Filaments: which one to choose?
Easy to print with little odour, good for prototypes and decor; softens around 55–60 °C.
Tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA; can string.
Heat-resistant; ASA is better in sunlight. They need an enclosure and good ventilation.
Rubber-like and flexible: print slowly, ideally with direct drive.
Strong and technical, but harder: they need dry filament and high temperatures.
Stiffer but abrasive: you need a hardened steel nozzle.
Compare filaments Filaments and health
FIPCO.ro tools
Having a print problem?
Lifted cornersStringingLayers splitting apartGaps in wallsFirst layer won’t stickFlared baseWet filament
Clear and true
- Values are starting points: they depend on filament, moisture, printer and maintenance.
- Where possible we cite sources: studies and manufacturer documentation.
- The tools are free. If affiliate links appear, they will always be marked.
- Found a mistake? Write to us.